VIBE

Beijing’s one and only Starck venue, LAN club is an insanely decadent, heavy-on-red-velvet lounge/eatery featuring everything from “the world’s four longest tables” to mysterious glass cabinets lavishly loaded with tuna fish cans and Mao trinkets. They’ve got an oyster bar, an English bar, a cigar bar, a red wine "chamber" (pointedly NOT a bar...), and 35+ private rooms to go bananas in. The bars are some of the best stocked in the city, and the cocktails potent, but the sullen, catty service can be a buzzkill. Fortunately, the kooky jumble of framed paintings on the ceiling of the main bar will help restore that buzz.

WHAT WE WOULD WEAR

One of the few places in town where dressing to impress is de rigueur. We’d go ultra-glam, with killer heels, a little black dress, and designer accessories.

GO HERE WITH

A date; friends; colleagues or clients

CROWD

Expat trendsetters and power brokers mingle with Chinese film stars and moguls.

WHY WE LIKE IT

The jaw-dropping décor is the major draw, though the expertly mixed cocktails and buzzing scene are pretty cool too. A good spot for impressing a high-powered client.

WHAT WE WOULD CHANGE

The grumpy service needs a pick-me-up and the massive space needs more people. It feels a little lonesome on quiet weekday evenings.

GOOD TO KNOW

For kicks, definitely check out the bathrooms, where the excess of mirrored walls is matched with opulent silver sofas and swan-shaped faucets. The prices may be insane, but LAN will gladly allow you to clear your debt with any and all major credit cards.

OTHER LOCATIONS

LAN Club (Shanghai)

CLOSEST COMPS

Rose Bar (New York)