VIBE

As captivating as the installation of illuminated lanterns dangling from tree limbs on the ceiling of this polished Japanese restaurant is, it’s outshined by the food, which, like a beacon, draws in Japanese foodies from across the city. Head chef Sugiyama’s modern and seasonal kaiseki cuisine is pitch-perfect, served in the traditional ritual progression of various large and smaller courses intended to harmonize flavor, texture, and temperature. Though it’s fairly casual, the upscale crowd is hushed and focused on the seemingly endless series of artfully constructed plates.

CROWD

The high prices mainly attract expense accounters, couples celebrating a special occasion, and well-heeled theatergoers.

WHAT WE WOULD WEAR

Keep it business casual with a sleek blouse, pencil skirt, killer heels, and your best jewels.

GO HERE WITH

Japanese food lovers; a friend or two; significant other; a date; yourself

WHY WE LIKE IT

Head chef Sugiyama is super friendly and answers any questions about his cuisine with delight. It’s so refreshing and encouraging knowing how much he loves what he prepares, and to see how much he cares about the way his customers receive it.

WHAT WE WOULD CHANGE

The restaurant tends to get a bit smoky, as diners are allowed to grill their own meat courses over a flame at their table.

GOOD TO KNOW

Sugiyama is one of the few chefs in the country to have mastered the Japanese ceremonial culinary art of kaiseki. A pre-theater menu is available. The menu is strictly prix fixe; prices depend on the amount of courses you order and how much you tailored your choices to the chef’s own tastes. The “Chef’s Choices” menu includes six- and eight-course kaiseki dinners. Vegetarian options available.

CLOSEST COMPS

Kyo Ya (New York); Kai (New York); Naoki (Beijing)

Click here for our full-form mobile travel guide, The Purple Passport to New York City.