VIBE

Catering to the eco-trending tastes of its posh Upper West Side neighborhood, Telepan has designed its menu to focus on the seasonal flavors of farmhouse favorites: dishes like mushrooms topped with poached eggs and roasted chicken with dumplings are meant to capture the “earthiness” that’s become so fashionable on the New York dining scene. Muted green walls, a rustic wooden bar, and, hanging in the back, a large picture of ripened apples all drive home the comfortable yet dignified country vibe.

CROWD

Upper West Side locals, smartly dressed 30-/40-somethings, and date-night couples.

WHAT WE WOULD WEAR

Opt for an upscale casual ensemble, like an elegant long-sleeve top, slacks, and high heels.

GO HERE WITH

A friend; significant other; a date; parents

WHY WE LIKE IT

The market-driven menu is creative without trying too hard, and the atmosphere is sufficiently refined for a proper dinner with the family or a date.

WHAT WE WOULD CHANGE

We don’t really dig the color scheme.

GOOD TO KNOW

In addition to the main menu, which offers two prix fixe lunch options, Telepan also serves a four-course tasting menu. Though many of the wines here skirt the line between expensive and too-expensive, you might want to consider ordering a bottle anyway: Telepan’s wine list has won Wine Spectator Magazine’s Best Of Award of Excellence five years in a row.

CLOSEST COMPS

Rouge Tomate (New York); Mélisse (Los Angeles)