VIBE

Be prepared for long waits at this tiny Art Deco “bistro-brasserie” by legendary chef Yves Camdebord. There are no lunchtime reservations allowed, so the colorful, mosaic-floored space is jam-packed from noon onwards with boho Left Bankers elbowing for tables from which to enjoy the delish set menu. In the evenings, the basic red-hued wooden tables are dressed up with crisp linens, the efficient staff spiffs themselves up, and the set menu goes from bistro to haute cuisine.

CROWD

Self-consciously offbeat Left Bank locals mingle with foodies and with-it tourists.

WHAT WE WOULD WEAR

Smart casual; being appropriately dressed will help you get in during the lunchtime crunch.

GO HERE WITH

One or two friends (there’s no space to bring a group)

WHY WE LIKE IT

The food is fantastic, and extremely reasonably priced to boot! And sure, it may be crowded, but when you join the lunchtime line, you’ll feel like you’re in on a local secret. There’s even a certain charm to the boisterous, elbow-to-elbow dining setup.

WHAT WE WOULD CHANGE

Having to wait in line for lunch.

GOOD TO KNOW

When it comes to scoring tables, guests at Hôtel Relais get preferential treatment. If you want to beat the lines, try coming for a late lunch at around 2:00pm. And if you’re really in a rush, the cute next-door snack shop also run by Camdebord serves light bites like sandwiches and crêpes.

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